#Split rivet full#

The middle 'splitter' part should also be narrower, not with the ridge the full width of the 'punch' so it can go down the hole and curl the legs while forcing them down more. The Sheehan tool does better than either, but does not reach in as far. My replacement does a slightly better job, could still be better. Those examples are flattened too much because the tool was worn. That way the curl is forced into the wood, more like the example pieces I showed in the piece of thin ply.

It needs to have the curling form, but it needs to be flatter, so that it both curls and flattens. But the one in the link is made a little wrongly. If you want to curl the ends, I found this: Nice old tool! Are yo going to refinish it in gloss black? it looks like that was what it was originally. There isn't enough 'spring' in the tools to replace the plunger without a lot of rivet drilling and replacement, which I'd rather not do The tools were both made of either cast or forged iron/steel, and riveted together.

#Split rivet how to#

I need to figure out how to get a longer plunger in there in a non-destructive way that won't fall out. I am not sure if it is worn (likely), or if this tool was intended for a different rivet that would be loaded into the tool and then both punched through the material and formed in one operation. So it takes a couple adjustments of the 'punch' to get a good formed rivet. It should do the entire form in one action, but the maximum extension is not enough. The plunger that hits the head of the rivet and forces it against what I am calling the punch, does not have much effective movement. There is a remaining issue I need to solve. Worked OK in testing, the curve-around could be better. It has, like the original, a curved hollow portion to turn and re-direct the legs to curl into the wood or other material. I opted to go with a fixed one-direction crimp shape, and not try for a two direction pyramid, because I figured (and I think I was right) that the single orientation form would be easier. So I made the one on the left, and hardened the end. It probably originally had a 4 sided pyramidal center, but is worn to more of a round cone, which won't reliably form the rivet legs. Here are the two, with the original on the right. So I decided to make a new punch for the Tus tool. I got it done, but it was a nuisance, and I had to use the Sheehan bench mount as a hand-held, because its crimp punch was less worn than the Tus. I had a box to fix as part of the ongoing cleanup, and 'dealing with stuff that has not been dealt with' program, and decided to use split rivets to hold some reinforcement. Somewhat like this, but more curled ideally: Split rivets are put through a hole in the material(sometimes they are just punched through as they are installed), and then crimped over so that the 'legs' are curled over and ideally lock into the wood or other material on the backside, holding whatever is to be riveted in place. The Sheehan is a bench mount type, the Tus is a hand held type. One is a Sheehan Mfg, pat date 1897, the other a Tus mfg, pat date 1898.

A lot of wood toolbox cases were made with the corner reinforcements, and various straps, hinges, latches, and even locks held on with split rivets. They are particularly useful for cases and boxes that are made of relatively thin materials, with corner and edge reinforcements. I have tooling for setting split rivets, and a supply of various sizes.